FAQs About Evapo-Rust - The Super Safe Rust Remover

A product of extensive research, Evapo-Rust rust remover is an environmentally safe water based product that has been proven to make even deep rust disappear in minutes, without any scrubbing.
It’s so easy to use, anyone can restore their rusted tools, auto parts, even firearms to like-new condition. One gallon de-rusts up to 300 pounds (136kg) of steel.
Evapo-rust will not harm metals, rubber, plastic, PVC, most paints or un-rusted steel. In fact, immersing un-rusted objects in Evapo-Rust provides excellent long-term rust protection.
Best of all, Evapo-Rust is safe to use. It’s non-toxic, non-corrosive, non-flammable, and contains no acids, alkalis or petroleum solvents. Evapo-Rust is also biodegradable.

Rust Removal Has Never Been Easier!

1. Pour into a container a sufficient amount of Evapo-Rust to completely cover the rusted object.
2. Immerse the rusted object into the Evapo-Rust solution for 30 minutes (light rust) up to overnight (heavy rust).
3. Rinse item with water. If deep rust remains in puts, re-immerse in Evapo-Rust.

FAQs

Q. How does Evapo-Rust work?
A. Evapo-Rust uses “selective chelation”, a process in which a large synthetic molecule forms a bond with metals and holds them in solutions. The active ingredient in Evapo-Rust bonds exclusively to the iron in ironoxide – not in steel.

Q. Do parts have to be completely clean before treatment?
A. No. Evapo-Rust contains detergents which can penetrate dirt and oil. However, surface contaminants do slow the process. The soils must be penetrated before EVAPO-RUST can come in contact with the rust underneath. Soil residue will also shorten the life of EVAPO-RUST. Heavy greases and cosmoline should be removed prior to de-rusting.

Q. Will Evapo-Rust remove bluing and other oxide finishes?
A. Yes, in about 30 minutes. Anodising will not be removed. Powder coating and paint will not be removed as long as the paints do not contain oxides.

Q. Can I clean brass, copper and aluminium with Evapo-Rust?
A. No, it will not clean (or damage) any of these metals. It will not harm plastic, clothing or glass either.

Q. I get a black film on some parts after using Evapo-Rust. What is it and how do I remove it?
A. The black is carbon from the steel. Generally high carbon steel is used in making items that are flexible (e.g. springs, saw blades) High carbon steel and tool alloy steel items when de-rusted will have a darker appearance. Much of the carbon can be removed simply by wiping with a cloth.


Q. Can I de-rust by spraying Evapo-Rust on the rusted area?
A. No. Evapo-Rust only works in liquid form, since the water in the solution will evaporate when sprayed. However, it can be sprayed on unrusted steel as a rust preventative.

Q. How can I use Evapo-Rust on a surface too large to soak?
A. Place a paper towel soaked in Evapo-Rust over the rusted area. Cover the paper towel with plastic wrap and tape the wrap down to prevent moisture from escaping. Remove in 24 hours and rinse with water.

Q. How long does Evapo-Rust last?
A. One gallon of Evapo-Rust will remove moderate rust from 300 pounds (136kg) of steel. If any of the bath evaporates, simply replace with fresh tap water.

Q. How do I know when the bath is spent?
A. The bath will turn completely black and will not remove rust.

Q. How do I dispose of the spent solution?
A. Pure Evapo-Rust can be safely poured into the city sewer. When the solution is spent, only the iron content will dictate the disposal method.

Q. How do I protect parts against rusting?
A. De-rusting with Evapo-Rust will provide 10-14 days of rust inhibition, depending on humidity. You can spray it on unrusted steel to prevent rust from forming on your tools, hardware and garden equipment. Its water-based, non-toxic formula inhibits rust from forming on all ferrous metals.

How To Repair a Cracked Dashboard

When restoring older cars, it is often too expensive to replace a cracked dashboard. And, that is assuming a new dash board is available. In cases where new parts are too expensive, too difficult to find, or, impossible to find, you will need to restore what is already there. The padded dashboard on this 1971 Oldsmobile Vista Cruiser is a good example.

Step 1: As you can see, this dashboard has a hole that needs to be repaired. Most old cars and some new cars have dashboards made from vinyl over urethane foam. Over time in the sun, the vinyl gets brittle and the dash board gets cracks. Many newer dashboard don't have any foam at all. Instead, they are made from injection molded TPO or ABS. But, these dashboards can also get cracked or get holes from exposure to the sun.		Step 2: Use 80 grit or 180 grit sandpaper to bevel into the damage. Make sure that you sand out any dried-out and crusty foam, too.
Step 3: Use Plastic Welder to melt some of the polyurethane welding rod into the void that was created when you sanded out the crusty, dried out foam. The urethane rod is very flexible and closely simulates the urethane foam. Turn the temperature all of the way up and the melted rod come out bubbly. Some of the bubbles remain encapsulated within the polyurethane and simulates the foam even more. Overfill the hole slighly. You will be sanding it down and it is better to overfill slightly than having to find out that you need to melt more polyurethane rod into the hole after you have sanded it. IMPORTANT NOTE: If you have one of the newer dashboards that don't have any foam, you may skip this step.		Step 4: This is what it looks like after filling the hole.
Step 5: Use 80 grit sandpaper to sand the urethane level with the surrounding area. The urethane is very stretchy and elastic so, if you use really short strokes when you sand, it may just stretch back and forth rather than getting ground away. A good way to prevent the back-and-forth stretching is to put your thumb on top of the sandpaper over the area that you need to sand. Then, pull the sandpaper while maintaining downward pressure with your thumb over the urethane.		Step 6: This is what the damaged area looks like after the urethane welding rod was sanded down.
Step 7: Mix some Padded Dash Filler with the cream hardener according to the instructions. Use a spreader to apply the Padded Dash Filler to the damaged area.		Step 8: Allow time for the Padded Dash Filler to cure. Sand it smooth starting with 180 grit sandpaper and then 320 grit sand paper.
Step 9: This is how it looks after sanding smooth the Padded Dash Filler.		Step 10: Spray on texture coating. You may want to spray the texture coating on something else first. You will get different size texture depending on your spray gun settings and how much you reduce (dilute) the texture paint with lacquer thinner.
Step 11: Lightly scuff the texture coating with a scuff pad to remove any high spots. Sometimes the texture coating can be a little bit rough after it is applied.		Step 12: This is how the dash pad looks before the top coat is applied.
Step 13: A topcoat was applied to match the original color.		Step 14: Here is the finished dash repair and restoration. As you can see, the dashboard looks great. Now, for the rest of the car.